Lamb kofta on a stick rolled in meat floss

Soak the wood skewers at least thirty minutes.

Mince four cloves of garlic and two small shallots.

Put the garlic and shallots in a cold pan with about two tablespoons of olive oil over medium-low heat; once it bubbles cook gently two to three minutes so they only turn a very light golden brown.

Strain through a fine mesh sieve, keeping the garlic and shallot oil for something else, and cool the solids completely.

Combine the ground lamb, the cooled shallot and garlic, the coriander, cumin, cayenne and the egg white.

Add the minced mint and the parsley and season with about a teaspoon each of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Massage the mixture to a paste so the meat cooks up firm and tight and sticks to the stick.

Shape roughly three ounce long narrow meatballs, push a skewer into one end and smear the meat onto the stick.

Chill the shaped kofta half an hour before grilling.

For the floss, cut the pork tenderloin into one inch chunks, drop them into boiling water and cook gently about five minutes.

Skim off the impurities and scum, drain the pork, wash out the pot, refill it and rinse the pork thoroughly.

Return the rinsed pork to six cups of clean boiling water.

Add four slices of ginger, a cinnamon stick, a star anise pod, the greens of two chopped green onions and a tablespoon each of dark and light soy sauce.

Cover and hold at a bare simmer 45 to 60 minutes until the thickest part of the thickest pieces reads 205F.

Pick out the pork, discard the rest and cool the pieces completely.

Smash about a dozen pieces at a time with a rolling pin, rolling and re-rolling five or six times to stretch the meat fibres.

Rub a handful at a time between the palms until the wisps of pork are as fine as possible.

Toast the shredded pork in a wok with a tablespoon of coconut oil over medium-low heat.

Mix a quarter teaspoon of Chinese five-spice with one to two teaspoons of dark soy sauce, drizzle it over and dry the pork out over medium-low heat 10 to 15 minutes.

Variation: give a pound and a half of lean eye-round beef the same treatment — boil, skim, roll, smash, shred and dry in the wok — flavoured with soy sauce, cinnamon, thyme, cumin, bay leaf, rosemary and cloves.

Spread the floss out on a large rimmed baking sheet while hot so any remaining moisture evaporates.

Heat all four grill burners on max 10 to 15 minutes until terrifyingly hot, turn them down, season the grates with vegetable oil, shut the lid, crank the burners back up and cure about ten minutes.

Turn the burners down on one side, sear the kofta on the hot side two to three minutes per side with the sticks hanging over the cooler side, and reposition them if they catch fire.

Move to the cooler side and finish over indirect heat seven to 12 minutes to an internal temperature of 145F, then rest five to 10 minutes.

For the large ones, sear the same way and move off the heat for more like 15 to 20 minutes.

Roll the finished kofta around in the beef floss.