Mushroom queso fundido with onion and green chili, served in soft tacos

Remove the shiitake stems, slice the caps about a quarter inch; roughly chop the oyster mushrooms to the same size.

Heat the pan over medium-high, add enough oil to coat the bottom; when it starts to smoke add the mushrooms at once so they brown instead of stewing.

Toss the mushrooms regularly as they brown, two or three minutes; scrape onto a plate, leaving the oil in the pan.

Add a little more oil if needed to coat the bottom. Add the onions sliced a quarter inch and toss until translucent.

Cut the serranos lengthwise into three strips each, bunch and chop across; add to the translucent onions, standing back from the volatile capsaicin.

Cook until the onion is browned; this can be done ahead.

Return the mushrooms to the skillet and season lightly with salt.

Pour in a little Mexican beer and, without letting it boil down completely, stir in the cheese by the handful, each once the last has melted; cook only to melt.

Scrape into a warm serving dish, over a tea light if possible.

Wrap the tortillas in a lightly dampened paper towel in a sealed container and microwave 45 seconds to re-steam. Spoon the cheese into tortillas as soft tacos and eat right away.

Variation: after browning the onions with the chili, add a handful of spinach and cook until completely wilted, then about a third of a cup of beer; at a rolling boil, add the cheese by handfuls. Serve in warm flour tortillas.