No-churn blackberry ice cream with blackberry smash

Put the blackberries in a saucepan with white sugar, a pinch of salt and a little lemon or lime juice.

Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the berries break down and the juices bubble; add a tablespoon of water to start it only if needed.

Crush the berries with a potato masher rather than blending, so the seeds stay whole.

Mark the starting level with a spoon and reduce by about half, on medium for less splatter and no scorching.

Off the heat, pass through a fine mesh strainer to remove the seeds and fibrous bits.

Whisk in the can of sweetened condensed milk and the vanilla extract.

Chill in the fridge at least an hour, or over an ice bath, until cold.

Beat two cups of heavy cream in a chilled bowl, by hand or with a mixer, to medium stiff peaks without overwhipping.

Whisk about half the whipped cream into the blackberry mixture to lighten it until the cream just about disappears.

Add the rest and fold in with a spatula, fairly gently, to a light, fluffy but pourable batter.

Transfer to a frozen container, cover tightly and freeze until solid, at least four hours or overnight.

Optional: mix and smash a handful or two of the sweetest berries into the ice cream; serve, garnished with extra berries.