Old-school 1980s spaghetti carbonara

Remove the tough skin from the guanciale without taking too much fat; keep the peppered outside on.

Cut the guanciale into strips, so each holds fat that melts, meat that crisps and fat that crisps.

Salt boiling water generously and push the spaghetti in gently; stir in the first minute and again after about three minutes so it does not stick. It needs 11 minutes to be al dente.

Meanwhile cook the guanciale gently in a dry pan over medium-low heat, with no oil, about seven minutes until crisp; it starts to sweat after two minutes.

Mix the whole eggs gently with about half the pecorino to a runny consistency, and add pepper.

Switch off the heat under the guanciale and put the al dente spaghetti straight into the pan; toss quickly until the spaghetti absorbs the oil.

Off the heat, add the egg mixture and a little more pecorino and toss; the starch from the pasta makes it creamy without pasta water.

Return the pan to the lowest possible heat and toss gently until the egg starts to set on the guanciale, creamy but slightly scrambled (bavosa); then take it off the stove.

Serve a large amount on the plate and finish with the rest of the pecorino and pepper on top.