Sunday sauce with braised mixed meats and rigatoni

Brown the oxtail and pork ribs in hot olive oil, seasoning each piece of meat individually with salt.

Add the sausages once the meat has shrunk so no large area of pan is bare; turn the heat down if needed and take the sausages out before the pan scorches.

Brown the lamb (and any dark-meat chicken), seasoning each piece; return the sausages to cover the bottom and brown them further.

Remove all the meats and pull the pan off the heat before the bottom burns.

Chop the onion, carrot and garlic in big chunks.

Fry the onion and carrot in the meat fat, using their water to deglaze the bottom, until golden; add the garlic for the last minute.

Deglaze with the crushed tomatoes; rinse the cans with water into the pot; add wine if available and the whole tomatoes.

Season the liquid with dried Italian herbs and salt, salting only for the tomatoes since the meat is already seasoned.

Return the meats to the pot, without filling it too high, and cook in the oven at 300F / 150C until the meats are fork-tender, about six hours.

Skim or blot the fat if wanted, or stir it back into the sauce once the meats are removed; watch for loose bones.

Boil rigatoni in salted water.

Return the meats to the oven with the heat at max to crust them.

Taste the sauce; add vinegar to brighten it and a big pinch of sugar.

Drain the pasta and sauce it, optionally with fresh basil; serve the meat chunks alongside, or shred the meat back into the sauce.