Tacos al pastor on a pineapple-and-skewer trompo with homemade corn tortillas

Cut the top and skin off the pineapple, remove the eyes, and cut it into sections.

Cut the guajillo chilies with scissors to remove stems and seeds; microwave until crisp and toasty, stopping once they smell good.

Blend the chilies with white vinegar, pineapple juice, achiote paste, garlic powder, oregano, cumin, kosher salt and black pepper until smooth; leftover fresh pineapple went in too.

Cut the pork shoulder into slices about half an inch thick, then pound with the flat of a meat mallet to about a quarter inch.

Toss the pork with the marinade in a large bowl, working it between folded pieces; cover and refrigerate about two hours.

Stand three pineapple sections together, push three skewers through the cores, and stack the pork on the skewers in a rotating circle, two slices at a time; cap with another pineapple section.

Cook in a convection oven at 375 for about an hour, steadying it with the top rack and a foil ball; a further skewer was needed as a buttress.

Mix masa harina and kosher salt, adding warm water until play-dough consistency and a pressed ball shows no cracked edges.

Rest the dough about 30 minutes to hydrate.

Portion into about 1.5 ounce balls; press in a tortilla press lined with a cut-open ziplock bag, placing the ball about 20% left of centre.

Rest the tortillas in a single layer on a tray covered with parchment so they don't dry and crack.

Rest the meat; cut the white onion very small, chop the cilantro, and cut limes.

Cook the tortillas in cast iron over medium heat, about 30 seconds a side (he later says 45 seconds to a minute would have been better); stack under a towel.

Shave meat off the trompo and stir-fry it in a pan with a little lard until the fat renders and it crisps.

Assemble on three tortillas: pork, fresh pineapple, onion, cilantro and a squeeze of lime.

Variation: return the trompo to the oven at 400 to crisp further, chop the meat and crisp it again in a pan.

Variation: press two larger tortillas from the leftover dough and cook until crisp; layer crisped pork, roasted pineapple from the trompo and the grated mozzarella, top with the second tortilla and cook until melty; quarter and finish with cilantro and onion.