Tom klong (smoky Thai hot and sour soup with leftover chicken)

Dry saute dried chilies in a wok until charred spots develop and they smell smoky; or broil on low, watching closely.

Char shallots under the broiler (or on a grill) until smoky.

Tear leftover roast chicken by hand, keeping the skin.

Add the charred shallots and chilies to unsalted chicken stock, breaking up chilies for more heat, and bring to a simmer a few minutes until the shallots are soft.

Add lemongrass, torn kaffir lime leaves and galangal; infuse 3 to 5 minutes.

Add bonito flakes, wrapped in cheesecloth if they are to be removed.

Season with fish sauce and tamarind; no sugar.

Add the chicken and the mushrooms, heat through and bring to a boil.

Turn off the heat and add lime juice.

Taste and adjust with more fish sauce and lime.

Serve over rice or with rice in the bowl, finished with chopped cilantro.