Traditional pasta all'Amatriciana

Slice the herb-crusted exterior off the guanciale and cut it into very thick matchsticks.

Pre-grate one and a half ounces of Pecorino Romano and locate one fresh red chili.

Cook the guanciale in a large cold sauté pan over medium-low heat so the fat renders out, or it will be chewy.

After about ten minutes, once tender and beginning to crisp, add eight ounces of tomato puree and the chili and cook ten minutes.

Add eight ounces of spaghetti to boiling salted water and cook to one minute shy of its intended doneness.

Move the pasta to the pan with about half a cup of pasta cooking water, plus more as needed.

Season with freshly ground black pepper, kill the heat and add the cheese, holding off the salt.

Mix vigorously, adding splashes of pasta water until the sauce lightens in colour and turns almost creamy.

For any unmelted hunks of cheese, set the pan directly over the simmering water and let the residual heat finish it.

Season to taste with kosher salt, fish out the pepper, pile into a shallow bowl and twist into nests with a carving fork.

Garnish with extra cheese, a sprinkle of salt and pepper.