Asador-style open fire beef short ribs with salmuera and chimichurri

Leave the beef rib racks untrimmed, silver skin and fat on, to protect the meat from the harsh open fire.

Season heavily with very coarse salt only (salt and pepper is fine); avoid rubs with sugar, which will burn. The salt begins to draw out water.

Load the ribs into the meat cage of the open fire grill.

Build the fire with charcoal and wood chunks. After about 12 minutes, as coals fall, distribute them so the flame heats the top of the ribs and the coals the middle and lower parts.

Judge heat by hand: a hand held there five or six seconds is the starting level; start slower and increase. Set the cage at an angle, bone side to the fire. Move it back if too hot.

After about an hour the fat renders from between the membrane and the meat. To raise heat at the top, build a bigger fire; at the bottom, drag in more coals.

Turn the meat when the back of two fingers on the meat side feels warm, meaning heat has come through.

Make a salmuera: two tablespoons asado all-purpose rub per cup of warm water, so the salt dissolves. Brush it on, mainly the meat side (traditionally by dipping rosemary in it and hitting the meat; a spray bottle also works); it adds flavor and keeps the cooking gentle.

For the chimichurri, mix one part dry chimichurri mix to one part red wine vinegar and let it rehydrate; it can be made days ahead.

At about two hours, when heat comes through, flip the ribs to the meat side. Keep applying salmuera so the meat side browns evenly without burning; add a little more charcoal and wood.

When nicely browned with good pullback, move the cage one notch closer for about 90 seconds to finish browning, then about 60 seconds more. Internal readings at the end: 187, 189 and 187.

Finish the chimichurri with two parts good olive oil.

Rest the ribs briefly, then slice.