Basic tonkatsu

Trim the fat cap and silver skin, or place shallow cuts down the length of the fat cap just deep enough to see meat, so it cannot deform the chop as it contracts.

Pound the chop out with the spine of a knife, a meat mallet under plastic wrap, a heavy bottom saucepan or a jaccard tenderizer, rotating and flipping, until it is about 50% wider and flatter.

Dry brine: sprinkle both sides with kosher salt and leave 45 minutes at room temperature, or 4 to 24 hours covered in the fridge.

Beat three or four eggs with a pinch of salt, a splash of water and a little flour.

Pat the pork dry, coat generously and evenly in flour, then in egg, flipping a couple of times so no dry patches remain.

Press the chop into panko, swishing it so both large and small crumbs adhere, and fry as soon as possible.

Heat half lard and half peanut oil in a wok to between 350 and 375F, a smidgen under 375.

Fry three to five minutes, stirring and flipping about once a minute, until the crust is golden brown.

Drain on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and salt while hot; finish in a 275F oven if the middle is not cooked through.

Soak thinly shaved cabbage in ice water up to 30 minutes to crisp it, then dry it in a salad spinner or on paper towels.

Serve with lemon wedges and tonkatsu sauce.