Cake pan pizza (thick crust, Sicilian/Detroit-inspired)

Combine the warm water, sugar and yeast in a mixing bowl; blooming is optional, only to check the yeast is alive.

Add the cornmeal, the optional whole wheat flour, a little olive oil and the coarse salt.

Stir in as much bread flour as can easily be stirred in with a wooden spoon, with no hand kneading, for a very wet no-knead dough; leave the spoon in.

Cover and refrigerate at least a day; two to four days is better (this dough rose two days).

Line a 9-inch square cake pan with a crumpled parchment sling and oil the paper.

Fold the cold dough over on itself a few times with the spoon.

Rub the oil around the lined pan with a hand; with oily hands give the dough a gravity stretch, lay it in the pan and stretch toward a full square.

Cover and proof at least an hour or two, or a day or two more in the fridge.

Give a final stretch into the corners, pulling dough from the center so it is not too thick there.

Heat the oven to its highest normal setting, no convection or broiler, with a rack at the very bottom and the others moved up.

Stir the crushed tomatoes with olive oil, seasonings and a splash of vinegar; do not cook the sauce.

Once the oven reaches its maximum, 550F, gently spread sauce and cheese edge to edge, parmesan under the mozzarella; go easy on the sauce.

Bake on the bottom rack until just before done, about nine minutes.

Cool a few minutes, lift out with the sling, peel off the paper and set on a cooling rack.

Slide the pizza from the rack directly onto the bottom oven rack and bake until the bottom is golden and crisp, four minutes.

Cool on the rack a couple of minutes to steam out, then cut.