Crystallized Meyer lemon bundt cake (olive oil based)

Combine three cups of all-purpose flour with the kosher salt, half a teaspoon of baking soda and two and a half teaspoons of baking powder; set aside.

Add a quarter cup of the Meyer lemon juice to a cup of whole milk (two tablespoons if using regular lemons) and add the vanilla extract; it will curdle slightly.

Coat every surface of the bundt pan, including the centre tube, with a thick, even layer of room-temperature butter; dust with flour, tap the pan on a towel-covered counter to spot missed areas, and tap out the excess. Do this before mixing the batter.

Massage the zest into the cake sugar with the fingers to release its flavour, then add the eggs.

Beat with a hand mixer, low then high, a minute or two until pale, thick and holding the marks of the whisk.

Slowly stream in the oil so it incorporates smoothly and thickens to a mayonnaise-like consistency.

Add the dry and wet ingredients alternately, starting and ending with dry; stop just short of fully mixed and finish by hand with a spatula.

Pour into the prepared pan and get it into the oven quickly, since the soda is already reacting.

Mix the glaze: the remaining olive oil, half a cup of lemon juice and the remaining granulated sugar, which only partly dissolves.

Bake until risen, cracked and golden brown; test at 40 minutes with a cake tester in the tallest part, which should come out clean.

Rest a few minutes until the cake pulls away from the sides; loosen with an offset spatula if needed.

While hot, poke holes all over the exposed surface with a skewer and brush generously with glaze, scooping up the sugary layer.

Turn out onto a rack set over a rimmed surface, poke more holes into the top, sides and centre, and brush the remaining glaze and pulp over every surface, re-brushing the drips.

Cool completely on the rack before slicing with a serrated knife; keep covered on the counter.