Double-fried chicken karaage

Season the chicken thigh pieces with a little sake, about a tablespoon of soy sauce, a scattering of salt and MSG, and a little white pepper.

Cut ginger into discs, smash and chop very fine (or grate); add to the chicken and mix with chopsticks so everything marinates evenly.

Marinate about 15 minutes, or up to about 8 hours in the fridge.

Mix equal parts flour and potato starch. Drop the chicken in a piece at a time, shaking so every piece is coated and nothing sticks.

Tip into a strainer over a bowl and shake off the excess so only a very thin coating remains.

Heat neutral oil in a wok to 375F. Add the chicken; the temperature will drop - aim to maintain around 325F with vigorous bubbling.

Keep the chicken moving with a spider so it cooks evenly and no cool pockets form; turn the heat up to high to hold the temperature. Fry until the biggest chunks are cooked through.

Remove and rest 5 or 10 minutes. (The first fry can be done up to a couple of days ahead and refrigerated.)

Return the oil to about 375F and fry a second time, briefly, about another minute, to re-crisp the surface.

Dab on a paper towel to remove excess oil; no extra seasoning needed.

Serve with Japanese mayo topped with shichimi togarashi and lemon wedges.