Dry-brined spatchcocked smoked turkey

Defrost only in the refrigerator, about four pounds per day, or in cold water changed every 30 to 45 minutes, about one pound per 30 minutes; never in the microwave, on the counter or in warm water. Keep it in its packaging on a sheet pan.

On a baking sheet, snip open the bag away from the turkey and lift the bird out, leaving the liquid behind.

Remove the pop-up timer and the plastic truss; take the neck from the cavity and the giblet bag from under the skin at the other end, keeping them for stock or gravy if wanted.

Spatchcock: on paper towels, breast side down, cut off the tail (Parson's nose), then cut along both sides of the backbone with kitchen shears (or a small serrated knife) and remove it.

Make a small cut at the middle section by the wings, turn the bird over, open it like a book and press down hard on the breast with paper towels for grip until it lies flat.

Dry brine: on a rack on a sheet pan, sprinkle kosher salt at one tablespoon per four pounds, about three tablespoons here, on the back and mostly on the front, everywhere.

Refrigerate uncovered 24 to 48 hours; 48 is suggested. Have it brining by Wednesday for a Thursday Thanksgiving.

Mix the rub of dried rosemary, thyme, sage, black pepper and garlic powder; no salt in the rub.

Pat dry, brush both sides with a little neutral oil and season, lighter underneath and more on top.

Smoke at 275, about two and a quarter hours, checking with an instant read thermometer from about the hour and a half mark.

Pull at 160; it rises toward the 165 target, and pulling at 165 lets it climb to 170 or 172.

Lift onto a cutting board with a big spatula; the pink under the skin is the smoke ring, not undercooking.