Hanger steak with bearnaise sauce, grilled vegetables and wilted spinach

Reduce tarragon stems, chervil, shallots, pepper, red or white vinegar and white wine on low heat to extract as much flavour as possible; do not reduce to dry, or the sabayon will need a splash of water.

Pass the reduction through a sieve, pressing the solids; about three tablespoons, 50 g, should remain.

In a saucier, whisk the reduction with salt, pepper and the egg yolks constantly, moving the pan on and off the heat, until creamy.

Off the heat, add hot whole butter gradually.

Sous vide method: bag the wine reduction, egg yolks, salt and butter (melted or in chunks) and cook 45 minutes at 174F / 79C.

Transfer to a narrow container and blend with an immersion blender.

Season bell peppers, yellow squash and zucchini (and blanched baby broccoli if wanted) with olive or grapeseed oil, salt, pepper, thyme and parmigiano reggiano; add more olive oil and let marinate. Can be made a day ahead.

Lightly grease both sides of the steak with high smoke point oil and season with salt; pepper goes on after grilling.

Grill the vegetables about 10 minutes on both sides, longer for zucchini; a cast iron griddle works indoors.

Heat a large pot, add a drizzle of olive oil, a pinch of salt and crushed garlic, then two-thirds of the spinach; it wilts in under 60 seconds. Add the remaining fresh spinach and stir 10 seconds.

Sear the steak on a red-hot griddle or barbecue, about 3 minutes per side for medium rare; rewarm the bearnaise.

Season with ground black pepper and rest 5 minutes; reheat the spinach on the hot griddle, cut the steak against the grain and plate, sauce on the side, under or on top.

To fix a split bearnaise: put the pan in the freezer 10 minutes, then whisk quickly over the flame until it returns to normal consistency.

To revive chilled bearnaise: start in a cold pan over medium low, add about a tablespoon of hot water, whisk slowly, then faster as it softens, until like a runny mayonnaise; take off the heat.