Lobster pasta with a white wine sauce and quick lobster shell stock

Keep the cooked lobsters cold and separate them into claws, tails and body; save every shell and any liquid.

Tail: squeeze the side fins and crack joint by joint, pull the shell apart and remove the meat whole; pull off the top piece and remove the vein, then cut into bite-sized pieces.

Claw: set flat side down and give a firm whack with the mallet without crushing the meat; lift out the meat and remove the flat piece of cartilage. Chop the chalky claw tip finer.

Knuckle: crack or snip with scissors and remove the meat.

Body: drain it, pull off the top shell (save for stock), snap off the legs, remove the gills, tomalley and membrane, then scoop the meat from the cells along both sides where the legs join.

Break the shells into small pieces for more surface area.

Heat about 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high until it shimmers; add the shells (not the reserved liquid) and fry, tossing, until they darken and the oil turns red.

Add the halved onion, celery and parsley stems, the reserved lobster liquid and water just to cover the shells.

Bring to a boil, then keep at a vigorous simmer, uncovered, about 45 minutes, until reduced by a third to a half; add no salt.

Smash the garlic, cut the lobster meat a little smaller, and chop the parsley.

Strain the stock into a bowl, letting the shells drain thoroughly; taste for salt.

Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil.

In a high-sided pot over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons of butter with a couple of tablespoons of oil, add the garlic and cook until softened and starting to brown; add a little crushed red pepper flakes.

When the garlic turns golden add the white wine to stop it browning and reduce a little.

Add about 2 cups of the stock, keeping its fat, and let it simmer.

Cook the fettuccine in the boiling water only until flexible, about 4 minutes (the package says 12 for al dente).

Transfer the pasta with tongs into the stock and cook, tossing nearly constantly and adding more stock (or water) as needed, until al dente and the sauce has tightened from the pasta's starch.

Add more butter to emulsify and gloss the sauce; take off the heat and let it cool slightly, adding a splash of stock if dry.

Stir in the cold lobster meat, a few more red pepper flakes and the chopped parsley.

Add a splash more stock and a squeeze of lemon; taste for salt.

Serve in bowls with a few lobster pieces on top, a drizzle of olive oil and a lemon wedge.