New York style bagels, and four bagel breakfast sandwiches built on them

Whisk 250 g bread flour with 1 teaspoon active dry yeast in the stand mixer bowl and combine with 350 g water into a paste.

Cover with plastic wrap and proof at room temperature two to three hours, until bubbling with activity.

Whisk 400 g more bread flour with the sugar, diastatic malt powder and kosher salt, then spoon it slowly into the running mixer with the dough hook on.

Knead 20 minutes, until the dough is smooth, supple and stretchy.

Rest the dough covered in the fridge 20 minutes.

Grease a half sheet pan, line it with parchment and grease that too.

Divide the dough into 65 gram balls, rolling each tight by tucking it underneath itself; keep them under a damp towel, as the dough skins over quickly.

Cover with plastic wrap and rest in the fridge 20 minutes.

Press a hole through the middle of each ball, insert two fingers and stretch it into a bagel; keep them covered.

Proof about 20 minutes, then refrigerate overnight for at least 24 hours, which deepens flavour and gives the blistered crust.

Dissolve 1 tablespoon barley syrup and about 2 teaspoons baking soda in about a gallon and a half of water and bring to the boil.

Boil each bagel 60 seconds a side; they should puff and form a sticky gelatinous layer.

Flip smooth side up onto a wire rack to drain about a minute.

Bake on a greased, parchment lined baking sheet at 425F for 15 minutes, rotating the tray at seven minutes and flipping the bagels at thirteen.

Variation: mix onion granules, garlic flakes, white and black sesame seeds, poppy seeds, caraway seeds and flaky Maldon salt for everything bagel seasoning, and apply any topping just after boiling and just before baking so it sticks permanently.

Cool on a wire rack about 20 minutes.

Split a bagel and toast it in butter in a frying pan.

Sandwich one: two slices of turkey cut to a round, an over-easy fried egg cut to a circle around the yolk, cheese, top half on.

Toast no longer than three minutes at about 400F, enough to melt the cheese.

Sandwich two, egg patty: a teensy pat of butter and a barely beaten egg into a ring mold in a nonstick pan, heat low, a ramekin over the top to trap steam until cooked through, then loosen and flip briefly for colour.

Build with Canadian bacon then the egg patty.

Cheese trick: slice the sandwich in half, lift the top, lay the cheese across, replace the top and toast the whole thing so the cheese sheet stays unbroken.

Sandwich three: the same egg patty, a ring cut from smoked Scottish salmon, and a smear of cream cheese.

Sandwich four, Babish version: combine the sage, thyme, garlic powder, onion powder, chilli flake, chilli powder, smoked paprika, brown sugar, kosher salt and black pepper into a rudimentary breakfast sausage and mix until homogenous.

Shape a wide thin patty, since it shrinks, and cook it. Stack meat then egg patty, then the cut-in-half cheese trick with pepper jack.