Pad kee mao (drunken noodles) with shrimp

Stir together oyster sauce, soy sauce, Thai seasoning sauce and fish sauce; it keeps in the fridge.

Chop the Thai chilies very fine, then add the garlic and chop it less finely, then the mild red chilies, to a chunky paste.

Prepare the vegetables: carrots and Chinese broccoli stems together; keep the leaves separate for the end. Combine the sturdy herbs (finger root, green peppercorns) with the vegetables, half per portion.

Separate the cold noodle block into chunks, warm in the microwave at 70% power, rearranging every minute, until soft and hot; pull gently into individual noodles and weigh them.

Sear the shrimp without stirring so they brown; set aside.

Cook one portion at a time: put half the garlic-chili paste into the pan with the heat off, then turn it to medium and add a little more oil; let the garlic and chilies infuse until the garlic turns golden.

Add the vegetables, turn the heat to high and cook 30 seconds to a minute.

Add the noodles, drizzle in 2 tablespoons of sauce and 1 1/4 teaspoons sugar; toss fast until evenly coated, then let them sit to char a little without burning, and flip.

Return the shrimp; turn off the heat and add the Chinese broccoli leaves and basil, letting residual heat wilt them. Plate.