Pad kra pao (holy basil stir-fry) formula for raw or leftover cooked protein

Make the sauce: combine oyster sauce, soy sauce, fish sauce, Thai black soy sauce, sugar and a little water; stir so the sugar dissolves and does not settle.

Pound the hot Thai chilies to a fine paste, covering with a hand at first; add the cut mild red chilies and garlic and pound into a rough paste.

Variation: make a large batch of the paste in a food processor and freeze it in portions.

Cut raw protein into small bite-sized pieces, not chunky, but not too thin for lean meat; marinate with a splash of fish sauce.

For cooked protein, trim the fat cap if wanted and cut into bite-sized pieces; no marinade. If it is already salty, go light on the sauce.

Optionally sear the raw protein first in a very hot wok or skillet for browning; it can be cooked in advance and refrigerated.

Without cleaning the wok unless there are burnt bits, heat to medium, add a little more oil and saute the garlic chili paste a few minutes until bits of garlic turn golden.

Add chopped onions (optional, or other chopped vegetables such as long beans) and cook about 30 seconds so they stay crunchy.

Raise the heat and add the protein and the sauce; for steak, just heat through for about 30 seconds. Raw unseared protein can go in here and cook until done.

Turn off the heat and add as much holy basil as there is meat; toss until wilted.

Serve with a fried egg on top and Prik Nam Pla on the egg.