Sheet pan broiled spiced shrimp with chickpeas, leeks and tzatziki

Roll a garlic clove to loosen the skin, peel it and grate it.

Zest the lemon; chop the mint and dill fine; put it all in a bowl.

Grate half the English cucumber fine and squeeze out the excess water with a paper towel.

Squeeze in half the lemon, add about a cup of plain yogurt and stir; taste.

Season with salt, pepper and a little olive oil, add the rest of the lemon juice, then stir in milk to a drizzling consistency for a sauce.

Thaw the shrimp as before.

Lightly smash mustard seeds, celery seeds and chili flakes in a mortar and pestle so they release flavour and stick.

Peel the outer layer or two off the leeks, rinse, cut off the tops and cut thick rounds, cutting further down past any dirt; put them on the tray.

Slice a red chili to roast with the leeks.

Slice the leftover cucumber thin for serving raw.

Peel the shrimp as before and put on the tray; drain and rinse the chickpeas in a sieve and add them; blot the shrimp and chickpeas dry.

Put the cracked seeds on the shrimp, harissa powder on the chickpeas and pepper on the leeks; salt everything, going easy on the shrimp and chickpeas.

Drizzle olive oil everywhere and toss to coat; lay everything flat and evenly spaced, with the chili slices on top of the leeks to char.

Broil under the red-hot grill; flip things after about three minutes; the shrimp are done after six or seven minutes, when starting to get crunchy.

Add the cucumber slices, scatter the basil leaves and drizzle the tzatziki over everything.