Som tam thai (green papaya salad)

Peel the green papaya and julienne it: with a julienne peeler, or by making many deep incisions with a knife and slicing off thin layers.

Soak the shreds in ice water 10 to 15 minutes to crisp them.

Shave the palm sugar thinly and chop until there are no big chunks; roughly chop large dried shrimp; halve the grape tomatoes.

Drain the papaya very well and turn it into a paper-towel-lined bowl to absorb the extra water.

Pound garlic and chilies finely in the mortar.

Add palm sugar and mash it with the garlic and chilies to a muddy paste so it dissolves.

Break the long beans into the mortar and pound until broken but not mushy, so they absorb the dressing.

Add the dried shrimp and half the peanuts and pound until the peanuts are broken up.

Add fish sauce and tamarind, tasting and adjusting since tamarind varies in acidity.

Cut the lime off-center in three pieces around the core, squeeze into the mortar and add the skins; stir.

Add the papaya and tomatoes and pound lightly, flipping so the dressing comes up, just to bruise the tomatoes.

Plate and serve with sticky rice.