Trio of filled and glazed beignets

Bring the milk, sugar, vanilla paste and butter to a simmer in a medium pot.

Whisk the egg and cornstarch smooth in a bowl; slowly whisk in half the hot milk, then whisk it all back into the pot and simmer 3 to 4 minutes.

Check the set: whisk in a circle and stop; if the swirl stops quickly and bounces back it is done, if not cook at least two minutes more or add a little cornstarch.

Divide the custard and flavour half with lemon zest and juice; cover with plastic and refrigerate both at least an hour.

Mix the cold diced butter, brown and granulated sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg by hand or fork to a chunky, mealy crumble; bake at 375 for 15 to 20 minutes until dark golden brown.

Peel and medium dice the apples; cook in a very hot pan with butter, brown sugar and salt 5 to 7 minutes until golden brown.

Add cornstarch and a splash or two of water and cook about a minute until thick and sticky; set aside.

Divide the powdered sugar between two bowls: one with dark chocolate powder and a splash of water, one with lemon zest and juice; stir until dissolved, adjusting with water until the glaze coats the back of a spoon.

Roll the beignet dough thin and even for the fluffiest result, and cut out the shapes.

Fry in a pan no more than half full of oil, leaving a resting place for fried pieces; without a thermometer, test the oil with a scrap: if it sizzles it is ready.

Glaze some beignets in chocolate and some in lemon. Cut an opening in others and stuff with the apple mixture.

Fill the chocolate-glazed ones with vanilla custard and the lemon-glazed ones with lemon custard; top the apple beignets with warm spiced crumble.