Bengali spicy fish curry (machher jhal)

Rub each side of each fish piece with a pinch of turmeric powder and salt.

Blend onion, ginger and garlic to a smooth paste; slice the other onion for later.

variation: to keep the curry from turning bitter, boil the paste onions five minutes, discard the water and cool before blending.

Mix the turmeric, Kashmiri chili powder, paprika, ground coriander and ground cumin with a quarter cup of water into a spice paste.

Heat about 6 tablespoons of oil on medium-high; once quite hot add the fish in a single layer, in batches, without overcrowding.

Fry until golden brown on both sides, waiting until the fish releases before turning; remove to a bowl and skim out any floating bits.

Add the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, cracked cardamoms and cumin seeds to the oil until they sizzle.

Add the sliced onions with a pinch of salt and fry on medium heat until golden brown, not too dark.

Add the onion ginger garlic paste and fry on medium-low, stirring, until oil bubbles out around the edges.

Add the spice paste, rinsing the bowl with a little water, and fry on medium, adding hot water if dry; add the garam masala and a splash of water.

Add 1.5 cups of hot water and salt; place the fish and its juices in the gravy with three green chilies.

Cover on low heat 6 minutes, then gently turn each piece.

Simmer uncovered another 4 minutes; taste, adjust seasoning, add chopped coriander leaves and serve over rice.