Kai tun (steamed egg custard with crab and black fungus)

Grind the white peppercorns to a fine powder in a mortar, then add garlic and cilantro roots and grind as fine as possible; a cleaned coffee grinder also works.

Add salt and sugar to help it grind; grind until very fine.

Rinse the mortar with some of the unsalted stock.

Beat the three eggs by stirring rather than whipping, to avoid air bubbles. Add soy sauce, the rest of the stock, then the herb paste.

Strain to remove the egg white bits; ideally strain before adding the herb paste.

Soak the dried black fungus in water 10 to 15 minutes until it blooms; cut into little strips.

Put the black fungus and crab meat in the ramekins and pour in the custard.

Steam over low heat at a gentle simmer, never a vigorous boil, with the lid propped ajar with chopsticks to let excess heat escape. Takes 8 to 15 minutes depending on cup size, steam heat and how cold the custard is; check often and early.

Test doneness: slightly puffed, jiggles like jello without waves; a knife pushed into the centre shows only clear broth, not cloudy liquid custard.

Cool slightly, garnish with a little extra crab meat and green onions.

To reheat for breakfast, microwave gently at 40% power.