Faga'ata, Bahraini one-pot chicken and rice

Crumble about half a teaspoon of saffron, add a bit of hot water and rose water and leave to steep.

Bring a pot of water to the boil. Wash and soak the split peas, then boil until about two-thirds cooked, not mushy; check at 8 minutes, may take 15.

Crush coriander and cumin seeds fairly fine (not to a powder); combine with paprika, turmeric, mild curry powder and ground cinnamon.

Press black limes open, pick out the seeds (they add bitterness), grind with the skin in a spice grinder and add about a teaspoon to the spice mix.

Season skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs with about half the spice mix and some salt; set aside (can be done a day ahead).

Cut the onions into four or six wedges, the tomato into four; peel the potatoes. Drain the split peas.

In a big bowl combine onions, tomato, potatoes, whole green chilies, split peas, one split black lime, grated garlic and ginger, the rest of the spices, a bit of salt and a bit of ghee; mix by hand.

Wash the rice until the water runs clear, cover by a couple of inches of water and soak 20 minutes to 2 hours (not overnight).

Bring the cooking pot two-thirds full of well-salted water to a boil; add cloves, cardamom and bay leaves, then the drained rice.

Cook about 3 to 4 minutes, to al dente; drain, then rinse and dry the pot.

Swirl ghee over the bottom of the pot; spread half the vegetables, lay the chicken thighs skin down, then the other half of the vegetables.

Pile the rice gently on top with its whole spices, without pressing; pour over the rest of the saffron water and finish with the last of the ghee. Poke a few steam holes with the back of a spoon.

Tie a cloth over the lid and seal the pot; add no other liquid, the onions and tomato provide it.

Cook on medium-high for 15 minutes, then turn to low and steam undisturbed about an hour and a half.

Steam on low about an hour and a half, then let it rest a little.

Uncover and invert onto a platter; shake gently. Finish with a little of her favorite herb (or parsley). Serve with a spicy lemon pickle or chili sauce, salad and yogurt.