Grilled skirt steak with charred scallion and Anaheim chili sauce

Trim whole scallions and char them over very hot coals until brown on both sides; char the Anaheim chili and grill the lemon until charred.

Rough chop the charred scallions and the cilantro, leaves and fine stems, and put them in the mortar with flat leaf parsley.

Spread the capers on a paper towel and press them to remove excess brine and flatten them so they do not roll, then rough chop.

Leave the charred skin on the chili; remove the ribs, cut into strips and dice.

Season the skirt steak with a mix of salt and MSG and grill it over the hottest part of the grill, partially covered so it stays hot with enough airflow.

Rotate the steak for more even browning on the first side, then flip.

Pound the herbs, capers, chilies and scallions with a little salt, not to a puree, just to release the herbs' flavour.

Add the juice of two of the grilled lemon pieces and pour in olive oil; work with the pestle to a creamy, semi-stable emulsion. Taste for salt and acid.

Use a thermometer; stop a thin skirt steak at around 115 degrees, it carries up from there.

Slice against the grain so it is as tender as possible; plate rustic and spoon the charred scallion sauce over.