Kabuli chana chilla (gluten-free chickpea pancakes)

Soak the dry chickpeas in water overnight, 8 to 10 hours; drain all the water, rinse well and transfer to a blender jar.

Add the ginger, green chili, gram flour, rice flour, salt, coconut milk and half a cup of water; blend to a very smooth batter, neither too thick nor too thin.

Rest the batter about 10 minutes, then add the turmeric, onion, red bell pepper and cilantro.

Add the baking soda and lemon juice just before cooking; do not add too many vegetables or the batter turns watery. Thin with water a tablespoon at a time if needed.

Heat a non-stick pan until very hot, lower to low and brush with oil; spread two spoonfuls of batter by dabbing with the back of a spoon.

Cover and cook on low until the surface looks dry.

Add a teaspoon of oil around the edge and flip; press gently with a spatula and cook uncovered on medium-low, flipping again after a few minutes, until browned on both sides. If it sticks, wait rather than scrape.

Wipe the pan with a paper towel between pancakes; taste the first one to check salt and frying.

Serve with chopped onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, bell peppers or plain yogurt.

Variation, not recommended: canned cooked chickpeas with less water, garlic, carrot, onion and bell peppers, four tablespoons each of gram and rice flour, and a tarka of mustard and cumin seeds heated in 2 teaspoons of oil. The pancakes fell apart.